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<p>To make this kind of hit well you must stand with your feet not too far apart, so that you can advance further in hitting, or according to circumstances withdraw by bringing back the foot, leaning the weight of the body on the foot which is to remain steady, so that the other may be more agile and easy to lift, for these reasons it is not good to be on guard with the left foot forward, because you cannot make a long lunge without passing; whilst if you tried to pass with the rear foot and to return you would find the movement too long; besides you would go too far to be able to return in time. For these reasons and many others which we omit it is not good to be on guard with the left foot forward, unless you are waiting for your adversary to try a hit, so that you may at that moment withdraw your left foot, parry, and hit him at the same instant. This method may succeed, because the body changes its front and withdraws, the right side remaining in front for the attack. But if your adversary does not come on, you should not attack him, since it is better to have the right side in front; you can hit in shorter time and save yourself more promptly, as the foot and the body make smaller movements. After hitting it is good to carry the right foot behind the left and to continue with the left behind the right in order to rest on the right foot, for in this way you will withdraw so far that your adversary cannot hit, unless he has hit in ''counter-time''. This guard of the left foot will be more useful with the sword and dagger than with the sword alone. But it is better to stand with the right foot forward, and immediately after hitting draw it back close to the left, for in this case if your adversary follows you can advance it again, and also you can step backwards with the left, as you see an opportunity, hitting at the same time as the adversary follows.</p>
 
<p>To make this kind of hit well you must stand with your feet not too far apart, so that you can advance further in hitting, or according to circumstances withdraw by bringing back the foot, leaning the weight of the body on the foot which is to remain steady, so that the other may be more agile and easy to lift, for these reasons it is not good to be on guard with the left foot forward, because you cannot make a long lunge without passing; whilst if you tried to pass with the rear foot and to return you would find the movement too long; besides you would go too far to be able to return in time. For these reasons and many others which we omit it is not good to be on guard with the left foot forward, unless you are waiting for your adversary to try a hit, so that you may at that moment withdraw your left foot, parry, and hit him at the same instant. This method may succeed, because the body changes its front and withdraws, the right side remaining in front for the attack. But if your adversary does not come on, you should not attack him, since it is better to have the right side in front; you can hit in shorter time and save yourself more promptly, as the foot and the body make smaller movements. After hitting it is good to carry the right foot behind the left and to continue with the left behind the right in order to rest on the right foot, for in this way you will withdraw so far that your adversary cannot hit, unless he has hit in ''counter-time''. This guard of the left foot will be more useful with the sword and dagger than with the sword alone. But it is better to stand with the right foot forward, and immediately after hitting draw it back close to the left, for in this case if your adversary follows you can advance it again, and also you can step backwards with the left, as you see an opportunity, hitting at the same time as the adversary follows.</p>
  
<p>After these rules it is well to understand the pass, a thing very profitable and advantageous, because you thereby disturb and frighten your adversary, hit with more force and show your superiority. The body, the sword and the feet are more in union, and that union generates strength and vivacity of movement. In the course of passing you can readily change from one line to another, so that your adversary has difficulty in defending himself and has no chance to do much, since the opportunity quick1y passes, nor has he time to consider much, and as his point is penetrated he cannot hit. In lunging it often happens that you find you have gone so far, either by carrying the foot too far, or because your adversary has himself advanced, that you cannot move out of distance and are hit in withdrawing. In such a case it is good to continue to the adversary's body, for the greatest danger is in getting within distance; but when you have passed his point and follow on to the body, you arrive before he can withdraw his sword. Still one often sees the adversary, though his point is passed and he hit, withdraw his sword and make a hit. This is due to the mistake of the one who passed, who has not gone right on to the body nor taken the ''time'' well. For if he passes at the moment when his adversary advances his sword, or when his sword is occupied in the defence, or out of line, the adversary cannot withdraw his sword at the time of the pass.</p>
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<p>After these rules it is well to understand the pass, a thing very profitable and advantageous, because you thereby disturb and frighten your adversary, hit with more force and show your superiority. The body, the sword and the feet are more in union, and that union generates strength and vivacity of movement. In the course of passing you can readily change from one line to another, so that your adversary has difficulty in defending himself and has no chance to do much, since the opportunity quickly passes, nor has he time to consider much, and as his point is penetrated he cannot hit. In lunging it often happens that you find you have gone so far, either by carrying the foot too far, or because your adversary has himself advanced, that you cannot move out of distance and are hit in withdrawing. In such a case it is good to continue to the adversary's body, for the greatest danger is in getting within distance; but when you have passed his point and follow on to the body, you arrive before he can withdraw his sword. Still one often sees the adversary, though his point is passed and he hit, withdraw his sword and make a hit. This is due to the mistake of the one who passed, who has not gone right on to the body nor taken the ''time'' well. For if he passes at the moment when his adversary advances his sword, or when his sword is occupied in the defence, or out of line, the adversary cannot withdraw his sword at the time of the pass.</p>
  
 
<p>We might add that, although you pass, you should still follow your adversary's sword gliding along his blade, wherever it is, so as to be continually defended. If he withdraws his sword, so much the better, as he uncovers more parts, and his ''forte'' is drawn back and cannot resist. There are some men, who, although you have passed, do withdraw and make a hit; this is easier with short swords than with long. As to this we say that, whether the sword be long or short, if in passing you go close up to the adversary's body, you will be safe. For in passing you can do various things, throw the adversary into disorder by jostling him, seize the hilt of his sword, and pass so far beyond his flank that he cannot bring his sword, however short, so far back without himself withdrawing, which he cannot do in time. In passing you can grapple with your adversary and throw him to the ground, which would be good when your sword has not hit; for it may be held for certain, that if in passing you hit, your sword would penetrate to the hilt, which would shake and disorder your adversary, and the wound would be inflicted in a part of such importance that he would be at least prevented from withdrawing his sword. Moreover the one who passes is in all cases the readier to seize a chance, than the other who is occupied with the defence and confused by the danger in which he is.</p>
 
<p>We might add that, although you pass, you should still follow your adversary's sword gliding along his blade, wherever it is, so as to be continually defended. If he withdraws his sword, so much the better, as he uncovers more parts, and his ''forte'' is drawn back and cannot resist. There are some men, who, although you have passed, do withdraw and make a hit; this is easier with short swords than with long. As to this we say that, whether the sword be long or short, if in passing you go close up to the adversary's body, you will be safe. For in passing you can do various things, throw the adversary into disorder by jostling him, seize the hilt of his sword, and pass so far beyond his flank that he cannot bring his sword, however short, so far back without himself withdrawing, which he cannot do in time. In passing you can grapple with your adversary and throw him to the ground, which would be good when your sword has not hit; for it may be held for certain, that if in passing you hit, your sword would penetrate to the hilt, which would shake and disorder your adversary, and the wound would be inflicted in a part of such importance that he would be at least prevented from withdrawing his sword. Moreover the one who passes is in all cases the readier to seize a chance, than the other who is occupied with the defence and confused by the danger in which he is.</p>
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If you wish to advance with the left foot first in assaulting an adversary on the right foot you must realise your disadvantage, that is to say, your sword in hitting and recovering does not reach so far as your adversary’s, who is on his right foot and may hit and easily recover with little movement of the body. Therefore you must bring the right foot forward and when you have passed, owing to the great movement of the foot and the distance you have advanced, it is impossible to recover and break distance in one ''time''. Therefore it will be necessary if you wish to recover after hitting to weigh on your adversary's sword and hold it in subjection towards the ground until you have recovered, in order to prevent his hitting while you are withdrawing. Even so, if your adversary were skilful[!] in freeing his sword, you would be in danger of being hit before you had come to rest owing to the great distance the foot has to recover, even longer than its advance.
 
If you wish to advance with the left foot first in assaulting an adversary on the right foot you must realise your disadvantage, that is to say, your sword in hitting and recovering does not reach so far as your adversary’s, who is on his right foot and may hit and easily recover with little movement of the body. Therefore you must bring the right foot forward and when you have passed, owing to the great movement of the foot and the distance you have advanced, it is impossible to recover and break distance in one ''time''. Therefore it will be necessary if you wish to recover after hitting to weigh on your adversary's sword and hold it in subjection towards the ground until you have recovered, in order to prevent his hitting while you are withdrawing. Even so, if your adversary were skilful[!] in freeing his sword, you would be in danger of being hit before you had come to rest owing to the great distance the foot has to recover, even longer than its advance.
  
Therefore when you have advanced the right foot it is better to follow with the left also, and pass entirely, or having advanced the right foot and hit, at once to recover your weapons to the line of your adversary's sword and close its path entirely, remaining steady on the feet. If your adversary withdraws in order to free himself you can hit again in the ''time'' of his movement for within such close distance he cannot get back in time. All these rules apply after you have made a hit. In order to approach within striking distance, you should, for greater security, hold your dagger in such a manner, that as you advance the foot it reaches the point of the adversary's sword near to the blade without any other movement, s0 that you are sure that the dagger in that position defends the straight line from the point to your body. This is the true method of acquiring distance, so that the adversary cannot easily hit; if he moves his sword, it will be a change made to avoid the danger, which will give you a chance to hit as he moves. If you are not within this distance, you must approach with little movement of the point of the dagger and cover his new line in the same way. In order to find a chance to hit and pass, you should glide along the blade of your adversary's sword with your dagger, without beating it, that is to say when you are on the inside. If on the outside you should neither beat nor glide along his blade but leave the dagger in its place, or little in advance, since you must never penetrate the fourth part of his sword. In hitting you must turn the hand into the guard of ''quarte'' in order to unite it with the dagger, thus defending the upper and lower part at the same time.
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Therefore when you have advanced the right foot it is better to follow with the left also, and pass entirely, or having advanced the right foot and hit, at once to recover your weapons to the line of your adversary's sword and close its path entirely, remaining steady on the feet. If your adversary withdraws in order to free himself you can hit again in the ''time'' of his movement for within such close distance he cannot get back in time. All these rules apply after you have made a hit. In order to approach within striking distance, you should, for greater security, hold your dagger in such a manner, that as you advance the foot it reaches the point of the adversary's sword near to the blade without any other movement, so that you are sure that the dagger in that position defends the straight line from the point to your body. This is the true method of acquiring distance, so that the adversary cannot easily hit; if he moves his sword, it will be a change made to avoid the danger, which will give you a chance to hit as he moves. If you are not within this distance, you must approach with little movement of the point of the dagger and cover his new line in the same way. In order to find a chance to hit and pass, you should glide along the blade of your adversary's sword with your dagger, without beating it, that is to say when you are on the inside. If on the outside you should neither beat nor glide along his blade but leave the dagger in its place, or little in advance, since you must never penetrate the fourth part of his sword. In hitting you must turn the hand into the guard of ''quarte'' in order to unite it with the dagger, thus defending the upper and lower parts at the same time.
  
 
It is true that sometimes this method with the dagger is impossible, because the adversary holds his weapons so close together or because of the angle of his sword. The dagger is not sufficient to defend from the knee to the head, for it cannot defend more than one place at once, and in advancing within distance it might be harassed and disordered so much that the adversary by observing the ''time'' and taking advantage of the movement might forthwith hit. Therefore, as you have your left side forward and no other defence is possible, you must add the union of the sword, that it may defend one part, while the dagger defends the other. In this way there will be great benefit to your body, for the dagger will be more secure in its defence, and you will have greater advantage in hitting, since the point of your sword will be always nearer to the adversary and no less safe from his weapons than before. Now we will show the position in which the sword should be held.
 
It is true that sometimes this method with the dagger is impossible, because the adversary holds his weapons so close together or because of the angle of his sword. The dagger is not sufficient to defend from the knee to the head, for it cannot defend more than one place at once, and in advancing within distance it might be harassed and disordered so much that the adversary by observing the ''time'' and taking advantage of the movement might forthwith hit. Therefore, as you have your left side forward and no other defence is possible, you must add the union of the sword, that it may defend one part, while the dagger defends the other. In this way there will be great benefit to your body, for the dagger will be more secure in its defence, and you will have greater advantage in hitting, since the point of your sword will be always nearer to the adversary and no less safe from his weapons than before. Now we will show the position in which the sword should be held.
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| <p>[28] This hit also has arisen in a similar way. With the guard of ''tierce'' against the adversary's sword you have covered yourself and acquired the advantage. The adversary has taken that ''time'' and, lowering his body and point, has carried his right foot forward in order to hit below the sword, while you were trying to find his sword. You with a guard of ''tierce'' have begun your approach with little movement of the sword and without hurling it forward; seeing the adversary's plan you have abandoned your first policy and adopted another; by lowering your body and point in such a way as to leave your hilt against his sword and exclude it, you have hit in the chest as he was advancing; if he had changed from ''seconde'' to ''tierce'' to defend himself and thrust your sword away, he would still have been hit, because you would have changed from ''tierce'' to ''seconde'' and by lowering the body and continuing your advance you would still have hit in the chest, without his being able to parry or recover his point into line, because you would have passed before he started. Similarly if he had disengaged to hit in ''seconde'' on the outside above the sword, by changing to ''seconde'' and lowering your b0dy you would have hit below his sword. All these methods proceed excellently because of the advantage of the continued advance and because that guard of ''tierce'' has provoked the adversary to move.</p>
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| <p>[28] This hit also has arisen in a similar way. With the guard of ''tierce'' against the adversary's sword you have covered yourself and acquired the advantage. The adversary has taken that ''time'' and, lowering his body and point, has carried his right foot forward in order to hit below the sword, while you were trying to find his sword. You with a guard of ''tierce'' have begun your approach with little movement of the sword and without hurling it forward; seeing the adversary's plan you have abandoned your first policy and adopted another; by lowering your body and point in such a way as to leave your hilt against his sword and exclude it, you have hit in the chest as he was advancing; if he had changed from ''seconde'' to ''tierce'' to defend himself and thrust your sword away, he would still have been hit, because you would have changed from ''tierce'' to ''seconde'' and by lowering the body and continuing your advance you would still have hit in the chest, without his being able to parry or recover his point into line, because you would have passed before he started. Similarly if he had disengaged to hit in ''seconde'' on the outside above the sword, by changing to ''seconde'' and lowering your body you would have hit below his sword. All these methods proceed excellently because of the advantage of the continued advance and because that guard of ''tierce'' has provoked the adversary to move.</p>
 
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<p>Now we shall treat of another way of attacking the adversary, which is more subtle than the others. If you can safely reach the required position, you will hit without danger. On approaching, whatever your adversary’s guard you should gradually bring your sword towards the position where you intend to place it, so that on arriving within distance your sword reaches, the exact position desired. As we have said several times, the sword must be placed against the weakest part of the adversary's sword; this is so with the present method, until you are, within distance; but although elsewhere we have taught you to put your point against his point, yet with the present method you must advance so far as to bring your point against his hilt, but without letting his hilt penetrate beyond your point, though near it; your point must be in line with his hilt, neither above nor below, but to one side according to the position adopted by the adversary. Your point should be inclined rather downwards than upwards, for two reasons, the first, that you may be better able to disengage if, if necessary, the second, so that the adversary can find it only by lowering his hilt, which would give you a ''time'' to hit, as you are already on the move and your point is very near the adversary.</p>
 
<p>Now we shall treat of another way of attacking the adversary, which is more subtle than the others. If you can safely reach the required position, you will hit without danger. On approaching, whatever your adversary’s guard you should gradually bring your sword towards the position where you intend to place it, so that on arriving within distance your sword reaches, the exact position desired. As we have said several times, the sword must be placed against the weakest part of the adversary's sword; this is so with the present method, until you are, within distance; but although elsewhere we have taught you to put your point against his point, yet with the present method you must advance so far as to bring your point against his hilt, but without letting his hilt penetrate beyond your point, though near it; your point must be in line with his hilt, neither above nor below, but to one side according to the position adopted by the adversary. Your point should be inclined rather downwards than upwards, for two reasons, the first, that you may be better able to disengage if, if necessary, the second, so that the adversary can find it only by lowering his hilt, which would give you a ''time'' to hit, as you are already on the move and your point is very near the adversary.</p>
  
<p>On reaching this position, if your adversary is in ''tierce'' or ''quarte'', you must hold your sword in a straight line from your wrist to the point and your arm so far advanced that you are sure of defending any possible stroke with little movement, either when y0u reach your position, or at any time. In brief your sword and body must be in such a position that your ''forte'' can defend with little motion. But if your adversary is in a guard of ''prime'' or ''seconde'', you must then place your sword exactly in the line of his hand, but below it, and hold your sword in such a way that your hand forms no angle, and if he tries to you hit, you could parry with the same guard and hit at the same time on the outside over his sword, carrying the foot in that direction to shorten the movement, and to give yourself better cover and greater strength. If your adversary does nothing when you have your sword in the exact position, you should raise the point above the line of his hand and go on to the body and the nearest part exposed, covering yourself with your hilt in the line, where his sword might come, and supporting the stroke by the movement of your body in order to shorten the movement of the sword; by continuing you will reach the adversary's body before he can change his line. If when you reach your position he changes his hand to ''tierce'' or ''quarte''. Then you should parry on the inside and follow on.</p>
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<p>On reaching this position, if your adversary is in ''tierce'' or ''quarte'', you must hold your sword in a straight line from your wrist to the point and your arm so far advanced that you are sure of defending any possible stroke with little movement, either when you reach your position, or at any time. In brief your sword and body must be in such a position that your ''forte'' can defend with little motion. But if your adversary is in a guard of ''prime'' or ''seconde'', you must then place your sword exactly in the line of his hand, but below it, and hold your sword in such a way that your hand forms no angle, and if he tries to you hit, you could parry with the same guard and hit at the same time on the outside over his sword, carrying the foot in that direction to shorten the movement, and to give yourself better cover and greater strength. If your adversary does nothing when you have your sword in the exact position, you should raise the point above the line of his hand and go on to the body and the nearest part exposed, covering yourself with your hilt in the line, where his sword might come, and supporting the stroke by the movement of your body in order to shorten the movement of the sword; by continuing you will reach the adversary's body before he can change his line. If when you reach your position he changes his hand to ''tierce'' or ''quarte''. Then you should parry on the inside and follow on.</p>
  
 
<p>Again if the adversary were in a low ''tierce'' or ''quarte'' directed downwards, you should place your point in the line of his hilt, but above it, towards his hand, and, when you reach your position, at once go on to the body, carrying your hilt to the defence, for then he can do no harm with these low guards; if he raises his point, it will meet your ''forte'', as you are moving. After reaching your position, you will pass so quickly that he will have no time to defend. You must take care to place your sword in position always with the hand in ''quarte'' both on the outside and on the inside, above and below, and to direct your point towards the adversary's hand and hilt, and so far distant, that you always have time to disengage it or change your line, before he touches it. The nearer to his body you can bring your point with these precautions the better you will succeed. Therefore to approach in the proper manner you must carry your point forward without pause, and in such a manner that you can abandon your first plan and adopt another according to circumstances.</p>
 
<p>Again if the adversary were in a low ''tierce'' or ''quarte'' directed downwards, you should place your point in the line of his hilt, but above it, towards his hand, and, when you reach your position, at once go on to the body, carrying your hilt to the defence, for then he can do no harm with these low guards; if he raises his point, it will meet your ''forte'', as you are moving. After reaching your position, you will pass so quickly that he will have no time to defend. You must take care to place your sword in position always with the hand in ''quarte'' both on the outside and on the inside, above and below, and to direct your point towards the adversary's hand and hilt, and so far distant, that you always have time to disengage it or change your line, before he touches it. The nearer to his body you can bring your point with these precautions the better you will succeed. Therefore to approach in the proper manner you must carry your point forward without pause, and in such a manner that you can abandon your first plan and adopt another according to circumstances.</p>
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| <p>[52] '''The sixth and last method 0f attacking the adversary without a pause, and without waiting for a ''time'' but forcing him to offer a ''time''.'''</p>
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| <p>[52] '''The sixth and last method of attacking the adversary without a pause, and without waiting for a ''time'' but forcing him to offer a ''time''.'''</p>
  
 
<p>The preceeding[!] principles and methods of attacking without a pause, which we have described are practicable and likely to succeed, some more than others; and of them the one which requires more skill is the best. The method of which we are now about to treat is still more artful; in it the sword, feet and body are used with greater subtlety than in the others. You begin by approaching from a distance with natural steps, as we instructed in the other cases; when you arrive within wide distance, the point of your sword should be against the adversary's faible and in the stronger position. You should begin with the arm advanced, and, as the body comes forward, the sword hand must approach in order to bring the point to the required position of advantage, when within wide distance. In brief, al-though the body is moving, the sword and arm must remain steady and the body approach in a particular manner. As to the feet as you put one to the ground you must lift the other and bring it up to the first, but keeping it in the air in order to put it to the ground wherever needed, if the adversary moves. If he does not move, you should put the foot down a little in front of the other, and immediately lift the other to the same extent and keep it in the air with the same intention; for if the adversary takes the ''time'' of your lifting it, you have time to adopt a plan, before your foot comes to the ground; if he takes the ''time'' of your putting it to the ground, the other foot must be in the air ready to move. In this way you are always on one foot only and can move quickly and with control, as you desire. You must take care always to carry the feet in the ''line'' of the adversary’s sword; if his sword is on the inside and possibly high, in bringing your body towards his arm you must raise your hand just enough to bring your point above his and keep it there; if in that ''time'' he tries to hit in the lower lines, where he has been driven, it will be convenient for you to parry and hit below in the same ''time'' on the outside, if your feet are in a straight line with his sword; in the execution of this movement your hand must be carried to ''tierce'', your left side forward, while your right side is drawn back, for two reasons; in the first place, if the adversary disengages, he will not find your body; in the second, the further advanced the left shoulder is, the stronger the sword is and the more it can be shortened, so that you can advance further within close distance, and similarly your body will pass the point of danger.</p>
 
<p>The preceeding[!] principles and methods of attacking without a pause, which we have described are practicable and likely to succeed, some more than others; and of them the one which requires more skill is the best. The method of which we are now about to treat is still more artful; in it the sword, feet and body are used with greater subtlety than in the others. You begin by approaching from a distance with natural steps, as we instructed in the other cases; when you arrive within wide distance, the point of your sword should be against the adversary's faible and in the stronger position. You should begin with the arm advanced, and, as the body comes forward, the sword hand must approach in order to bring the point to the required position of advantage, when within wide distance. In brief, al-though the body is moving, the sword and arm must remain steady and the body approach in a particular manner. As to the feet as you put one to the ground you must lift the other and bring it up to the first, but keeping it in the air in order to put it to the ground wherever needed, if the adversary moves. If he does not move, you should put the foot down a little in front of the other, and immediately lift the other to the same extent and keep it in the air with the same intention; for if the adversary takes the ''time'' of your lifting it, you have time to adopt a plan, before your foot comes to the ground; if he takes the ''time'' of your putting it to the ground, the other foot must be in the air ready to move. In this way you are always on one foot only and can move quickly and with control, as you desire. You must take care always to carry the feet in the ''line'' of the adversary’s sword; if his sword is on the inside and possibly high, in bringing your body towards his arm you must raise your hand just enough to bring your point above his and keep it there; if in that ''time'' he tries to hit in the lower lines, where he has been driven, it will be convenient for you to parry and hit below in the same ''time'' on the outside, if your feet are in a straight line with his sword; in the execution of this movement your hand must be carried to ''tierce'', your left side forward, while your right side is drawn back, for two reasons; in the first place, if the adversary disengages, he will not find your body; in the second, the further advanced the left shoulder is, the stronger the sword is and the more it can be shortened, so that you can advance further within close distance, and similarly your body will pass the point of danger.</p>
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| <p>[3] Here we give a plate illustrating the guard is ''seconde'' of which we have sp0ken, in order that it may be better understood. From this you will understand the method of advancing and carrying the weapons and in what position the sword and dagger should be on arriving within distance. You must always contrive to have the dagger on the outside of the adversary's sword, as in the plate. If you cannot because he has carried his sword so far away as to be out of line, you should continue in that direction until your dagger is near the blade of his sword, without changing your guard, and then immediately attack and hit in the part seen to be exposed, still keeping the body low. If it is necessary to hit between the weapons, you should hit in ''quarte'' and here we warn you never to divide your weapons either when turning the hand or making any other movement, especially when his sword is on the outside; for if you turn to ''quarte'' and separate the hands, his sword could thrust below between the hands. If the adversary is on the inside, as in this plate, you can hit in ''seconde'' between the weapons, if there is an opening, or below or over the sword according to circumstances, leaving the dagger to defend, as we have said, and as will be seen in the next plate showing the hit.</p>
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| <p>[3] Here we give a plate illustrating the guard is ''seconde'' of which we have spoken, in order that it may be better understood. From this you will understand the method of advancing and carrying the weapons and in what position the sword and dagger should be on arriving within distance. You must always contrive to have the dagger on the outside of the adversary's sword, as in the plate. If you cannot because he has carried his sword so far away as to be out of line, you should continue in that direction until your dagger is near the blade of his sword, without changing your guard, and then immediately attack and hit in the part seen to be exposed, still keeping the body low. If it is necessary to hit between the weapons, you should hit in ''quarte'' and here we warn you never to divide your weapons either when turning the hand or making any other movement, especially when his sword is on the outside; for if you turn to ''quarte'' and separate the hands, his sword could thrust below between the hands. If the adversary is on the inside, as in this plate, you can hit in ''seconde'' between the weapons, if there is an opening, or below or over the sword according to circumstances, leaving the dagger to defend, as we have said, and as will be seen in the next plate showing the hit.</p>
 
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| <p>[7] This is the guard of ''seconde'' of which we have spoken, with the chest facing the adversary’s sword. When within such distance that your dagger has penetrated his point, you advance the right foot and ran along his blade with your dagger, passing out of line towards his right side in such a way, that his sword which was directed against your chest, is now out of line of your body as far as half the space between your feet, before you m0ved. Therefore it is sufficient to hold your dagger against his blade, without thrusting it away, attacking over his dagger for you know that your sword is superior and can make a hit in ''prime'', as will be seen in the next plate.</p>
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| <p>[7] This is the guard of ''seconde'' of which we have spoken, with the chest facing the adversary’s sword. When within such distance that your dagger has penetrated his point, you advance the right foot and ran along his blade with your dagger, passing out of line towards his right side in such a way, that his sword which was directed against your chest, is now out of line of your body as far as half the space between your feet, before you moved. Therefore it is sufficient to hold your dagger against his blade, without thrusting it away, attacking over his dagger for you know that your sword is superior and can make a hit in ''prime'', as will be seen in the next plate.</p>
 
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Revision as of 18:55, 4 June 2022

Salvator Fabris
Born 1544
Padua, Italy
Died 11 Nov 1618 (aged 74)
Padua, Italy
Occupation
Nationality Italian
Alma mater University of Padua (?)
Patron
  • Christianus Ⅳ of Denmark
  • Johan Frederik of Schleswig-Holstein-
    Gottorp
Influenced
Genres Fencing manual
Language Italian
Notable work(s) Scienza d’Arme (1601-06)
Manuscript(s)
Translations

Salvator Fabris (Salvador Fabbri, Salvator Fabriz, Fabrice; 1544-1618) was a 16th – 17th century Italian knight and fencing master. He was born in or around Padua, Italy in 1544, and although little is known about his early years, he seems to have studied fencing from a young age and possibly attended the prestigious University of Padua.[citation needed] The French master Henry de Sainct Didier recounts a meeting with an Italian fencer named "Fabrice" during the course of preparing his treatise (completed in 1573) in which they debated fencing theory, potentially placing Fabris in France in the early 1570s.[1] In the 1580s, Fabris corresponded with Christian Barnekow, a Danish nobleman with ties to the royal court as well as an alumnus of the university.[2] It seems likely that Fabris traveled a great deal during the 1570s and 80s, spending time in France, Germany, Spain, and possibly other regions before returning to teach at his alma mater.[citation needed]

It is unclear if Fabris himself was of noble birth, but at some point he seems to have earned a knighthood. In fact, he is described in his treatise as Supremus Eques ("Supreme Knight") of the Order of the Seven Hearts. In Johann Joachim Hynitzsch's introduction to the 1676 edition, he identifies Fabris as a Colonel of the Order.[3] It seems therefore that he was not only a knight of the Order of the Seven Hearts, but rose to a high rank and perhaps even overall leadership.

Fabris' whereabouts in the 1590s are uncertain, but there are rumors. In 1594, he may have been hired by King Sigismund of Poland to assassinate his uncle Karl, a Swedish duke and competitor for the Swedish crown. According to the story, Fabris participated in a sword dance (or possibly a dramatic play) with a sharp sword and was to slay Karl during the performance when the audience was distracted. (The duke was warned and avoided the event, saving his life.)[4] In ca. 1599, Fabris may have been invited to England by noted playwright William Shakespeare to choreograph the fight scenes in his premier of Hamlet.[5][2] He also presumably spent considerable time in the 1590s developing the fencing manual that would guarantee his lasting fame.

What is certain is that by 1598, Fabris had left his position at the University of Padua and was attached to the court of Johan Frederik, the young duke of Schleswig-Holstein-Gottorp. He continued in the duke's service until 1601, and as a parting gift prepared a lavishly-illustrated, three-volume manuscript of his treatise entitled Scientia e Prattica dell'Arme (GI.kgl.Saml.1868 4040).[2]

In 1601, Fabris was hired as chief rapier instructor to the court of Christianus Ⅳ, King of Denmark and Duke Johan Frederik's cousin. He ultimately served in the royal court for five years; toward the end of his tenure and at the king's insistence, he published his opus under the title Sienza e Pratica d’Arme ("Science and Practice of Arms") or De lo Schermo, overo Scienza d’Arme ("On Defense, or the Science of Arms"). Christianus funded this first edition and placed his court artist, Jan van Halbeeck, at Fabris' disposal to illustrate it; it was ultimately published in Copenhagen on 25 September 1606.[2]

Soon after the text was published, and perhaps feeling his 62 years, Fabris asked to be released from his six-year contract with the king so that he might return home. He traveled through northern Germany and was in Paris, France, in 1608. Ultimately, he received a position at the University of Padua and there passed his final years. He died of a fever on 11 November 1618 at the age of 74, and the town of Padua declared an official day of mourning in his honor. In 1676, the town of Padua erected a statue of the master in the Chiesa del Santo.

The importance of Fabris' work can hardly be overstated. Versions of his treatise were reprinted for over a hundred years, and translated into German at least four times as well as French and Latin. He is almost universally praised by later masters and fencing historians, and through the influence of his students and their students (most notably Hans Wilhelm Schöffer), he became the dominant figure in German fencing throughout the 17th century and into the 18th.

Treatise

Additional Resources

References

  1. Didier, Henry de Sainct. Les secrets du premier livre sur l'espée seule. Paris, 1573. pp 5-8.
  2. 2.0 2.1 2.2 2.3 Fabris, Salvator and Leoni, Tom. Art of Dueling: Salvator Fabris' Rapier Fencing Treatise of 1606. Highland Village, TX: Chivalry Bookshelf, 2005. pp XVIII-XIX.
  3. Fabris, Salvator and Leoni, Tom. Art of Dueling: Salvator Fabris' Rapier Fencing Treatise of 1606. Highland Village, TX: Chivalry Bookshelf, 2005. p XXIX.
  4. Andersson, Henrik. Salvator Fabris as a Hired Assassin in Sweden. Association for Renaissance Martial Arts. Retrieved 2011-12-18.
  5. Barbasetti, Luigi. Fencing Through the Ages.[Full citation needed]
  6. Originally "asseruatore", but corrected in the errata.
  7. This seems like a mistranslation of rompere di misura at first blush, but according to Kevin Murakoshi, this is an archaic piece of fencing jargon that was still current in the early 20th century. It means to "break measure" or withdraw. ~ Michael Chidester
  8. Originally "richeide", but corrected in the errata.
  9. Originally "dirarsi", but corrected in the errata.
  10. Originally "longuezza", but corrected in the errata.
  11. Originally "mettre", but corrected in the errata.
  12. Originally "volto", but corrected in the errata.
  13. 13.0 13.1 13.2 There's no conclusion of this word on the next page, just a new sentence.
  14. Originally "occcsione", but corrected in the errata.
  15. Originally "albassare", but corrected in the errata.
  16. Originally "& migliore", but corrected in the errata.
  17. Originally "temerariemente", but corrected in the errata.
  18. Originally "bisogna", but corrected in the errata.
  19. The letter 'F' was omitted in the print and hand-corrected in all copies.
  20. Originally "guardia", but corrected in the errata.
  21. Originally "equali", but corrected in the errata.
  22. Originally "poco", but corrected in the errata.
  23. Originally "poco", but corrected in the errata.
  24. Originally "non buoni", but corrected in the errata.
  25. Originally "queui", but corrected in the errata.
  26. Originally "che spada", but corrected in the errata.
  27. Originally "accorgendosi", but corrected in the errata.
  28. Originally "con pugnale", but corrected in the errata.
  29. Originally "mouendolo", but corrected in the errata.
  30. Originally "diuersi", but corrected in the errata.
  31. Originally "dentro la spada", but corrected in the errata.
  32. Originally "andere", but corrected in the errata.
  33. Originally "richede", but corrected in the errata.
  34. Originally "in suoi", but corrected in the errata.
  35. This word can't be read on the photos I have. It's a 6-letter word that seems to end in "s?ed". The Italian word means to move or advance, and Tom Leoni translates it as "fling".
  36. Originally "della", but corrected in the errata.
  37. Originally "la dette", but corrected in the errata.
  38. Originally "è passare", but corrected in the errata.
  39. The errata adds "l’".
  40. Originally "farmarsi", but corrected in the errata. The errata says it should be on page 232, but this is the only instance of the word in the book.
  41. This large blank space was probably meant to be filled in later with a suitable translation for brezza, which means "breeze" though that's obviously not the intended meaning here. It might be a spelling of brecca, meaning "breach". Tom Leoni translates it "rampart". ~ Michael Chidester
  42. Originally "sforza", but corrected in the errata. The errata says it should be on page 241, but this is the only instance of the word on the correct line.
  43. Should be 183.
  44. Originally "ineguale", but corrected in the errata.